Mystic Waters 神秘水域
To paradise by the busload
大风车带你看精彩的世界
神秘水域 Mystic Waters
九寨沟 Jiuzhaigou
九寨沟乃因山沟中曾经汇聚了九座村寨而得其名。然而今日，关于九寨沟更有意义的数字却是九之外的其它数字。在华中地区的岷山山脉，有座长30公里的Y形山沟，在这Y形的底端入口处井然聚集了约80间旅馆；旅馆外正有280辆接驳巴士，等候运送当天1万8000名左右
的游客上山前往九寨沟。巴士行经的路线景色优美，沿途尽是一连串如花朵般灿烂缤纷、似缎带蜿蜒的湖泊，以及像手指般修长流泄的瀑布；沿线两旁则是山崩碎石所切割出来的山崖，陡坡上长满了交织成锯齿状的浓密槭树、云杉与竹林。（云层不厚时，从成都搭乘飞机只需40分钟即可抵达此地。成都是四川省的交通枢纽，绿树成荫，邻近有些3000年前中国文明萌芽的要地。）栈道穿梭在众多小湖与长满芦草的溪流之间；接驳巴士沿途会让成群的游客下车，任他们悠游于溪湖之间，待尽兴后再排队等候其它接驳车，继续下面的旅程。
Jiuzhaigou means "valley of nine villages," because it once harbored nine, but other numbers are more significant now. About 80 hotels are clustered cleanly at the mouth of a Y-shaped, 20-mile-long valley in the Min Mountains of central China, where 280 buses wait to shuttle this day's 18,000 or so visitors up the very pretty route, past a chain of flower-colored, ribbony lakes and fingery waterfalls, underneath escarpments chevroned with maple, spruce, or bamboo forests cut by the talus of old landslides. (Clouds permitting, it's just a 40-minute flight from Chengdu, the tree-shaded jumping-off point in Sichuan Province nestled near some of the major germinating sites of China's civilization 3,000 years ago.) Boardwalks circuit the little lakes and reedy creeks, and the buses stop to let parties of trippers stroll at their own pace. Then they queue to catch another and continue on.
九寨沟主要由树正主沟以及则查洼和日则两条支沟组成，构成Y形的排列，Y字的底部为树正沟，上方两划则是两条支沟。则查洼和日则是冰川所切割出来的两条山沟，海拔一路爬升至最高处为3000公尺左右。这三条沟的剖面呈现典型的U形结构，与其美国的「姊妹」优胜美地国家公园类似。U形结构的坡面虽然陡峭，让人望之不敢贸然攀爬，但却又不似大峡谷般磅礡震慑，教人忘却了欣赏谷中的水道。这些水道虽然不大，却映照出水底石灰之美，显得格外迷人；因为这地区位处青藏高原，地质像美国落基山脉，属于海床结构，而非内华达山脉的花岗岩结构。当石灰岩溶解于水中后，水质在特定光线下会呈现翠绿或蓝绿的色调，倒映在河面的蔚蓝天空则更显清澄明亮。这些湖泊是因山崩阻断河流而诞生，但民间却流传，有些湖泊是因为众女神遗落了胭脂，有些是美人鱼在其中悠游，才显得如此多彩绚烂。沉积在湖底的碳酸钙有时会呈现沉睡的巨龙等令人充满遐想的形状。
Glaciers carved the two valleys that join the Shuzheng Valley—the Zechawa and the Rize, which climb to around 10,000 feet—into the classic U shapes one knows from Yosemite, Jiuzhaigou's "sister" park in the United States, with walls that discourage casual scrambling yet do not tower severely enough to distract from the extraordinary limy beauty of the modest waterways underneath. The geology in this part of the Tibetan Plateau is not granite, like the Sierras, but seabed, like our Rockies, so its limestones, dissolving, color the waters emerald or turquoise in a certain light or enhance the mirroring of an azure sky. Avalanches, in blocking the creeks, sculpted the lakes, but by legend, sky goddesses dropped their cosmetics into several, and mermaids swam in others. Calcium carbonate deposits on the bottom sometimes assumed fanciful shapes—sleeping dragons or whatnot.
通往九寨沟的道路从海拔1800公尺的Y形山沟入口一路攀升，然后在诺日朗分岔。在分岔路口有一座游客购物中心与自助餐厅。左侧的岔路最终通往一座弯曲、狭长的荒野湖泊，右侧岔路的终点根据导览手册则是一座「原始森林」，但说穿了只是在此地的观光商机尚未开发前，逃过了伐木业者砍伐的一小片树林而已。「九寨沟国家自然保护区」是中国最具指标性的自然保护区，曾经因伐木太过猖獗而危及其生态，后于1992年获联合国教科文组织列为世界自然遗产。
The road ascends from about 6,000 feet at the valley entrance, splits at Nuorilang, where a tourist shopping center and cafeteria are set up, and terminates in the case of the left fork at a wilderness lake, wiggly and long, and in the case of the right at a "primeval forest," in the language of the brochures, which translates as groves that were not leveled by loggers before the area's tourism possibilities were recognized. Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve, China's flagship of its type, was designated a World Heritage site in 1992 by UNESCO, after logging sprees threatened to degrade it.
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发表于 2009-3-26 16:34
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