支离破碎的索马里
发布: 2009-9-20 19:35 | 作者: cnnas | 来源: 大风车中英文门户网站社区
在索马里政府被打败之后，摩加迪沙成了一座毫无防备的城市，被海盗和恐怖分子所占领。然而，在北部，索马里兰地区却比较稳定与和平。发生了什么事？
Mogadishu is ground zero for the failed state of Somalia, a place where pirates and terrorists rule. Yet to the north, the breakaway region of Somaliland is stable and at peace. What happened?
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译文: 源自网络
1：Ruins overlook streets where fighting tore the capital apart in the early 1990s, leaving the city, and the nation, in chaos.
俯瞰街道废墟，在1990年代早期，战争使这个首都分崩离析，遗弃了城市、遗弃了国家，陷入一片混乱中。
2：War Without End Mogadishu
无尽的战争 摩加迪沙
Concealed in the courtyard of his home, a street vendor who has joined the Islamist militia called al Shabaab shows off his gun. The group has fought the newly formed transitional government with assassin's bullets, grenade attacks, and roadside bombs—and now controls most of southern Somalia.
一位街道上的卖主隐藏在他家的院子里炫耀他的手枪，他参加了称为阿尔·沙巴阿巴的伊斯兰民兵组织。这个组织以暗杀、手榴弹、以及路边炸弹与最近的组成的临时政府战斗，现在控制了索马里南部的大部份地区。
3：A speeding pickup filled with Transitional Federal Government (TFG) forces narrowly misses women cleaning a capital street. With turmoil all around them, residents barely remember what life under a stable government is like.
一辆载临时联邦政府（TFG）军高速行驶的敞蓬小货车与正在打扫首都街道的妇女擦肩而过。由于骚乱完全到处都有，城里的居民几乎不能回忆起稳定政府下的生活是什么样子了。
4：In the quiet of an abandoned lighthouse, young people chew qat. The mild stimulant makes the hardships of life in Mogadishu feel more bearable. Ten airplanes loaded with qat arrive at a nearby airport every day.
在一座被抛弃的灯塔的安静之中，年轻人嚼着夸特（qat）。这种淡味的刺激物使得摩加迪沙生活的艰难略为好过。每天有10架满载夸特的飞机到达附近的机场。.
5：Brimming with charcoal from southern Somalia's dwindling forests, a truck rolls toward a port in Mogadishu. From there the charcoal will be shipped to Persian Gulf countries like Saudi Arabia, which enforce laws protecting their own trees.
一辆卡车满载着来自索马里南部逐渐减少的森林的木炭驶向摩加迪沙的港口。从那里来的木炭将装船运到象沙特阿拉伯那样的波斯湾国家，而他们执行法律来保护自己的树木。
6：Life in a Lawless Land
不受法律约束地区的生活
On the shore children still play, and fishermen drop anchor nearby, but the hulks of derelict hotels stand vacant.
海滨，孩子们依然在玩，而渔民已经在附近抛下了锚，但是被抛弃的旅馆的废壳空空的矗立在那儿。
7：Life in a Lawless Land
不受法律约束地区的生活
A man pierced by shrapnel from a mortar strike near a mosque joins the scores of wounded who arrive almost daily at Medina Hospital. Since early 2007 Mogadishu has lost more than half its population, as civilians flee fighting between the government and insurgents.
被攻击附近一座清真寺的迫击炮榴弹穿透的男人参加创伤检查，他几乎每天要来麦地那医院。自从2007年以来，因为平民逃避政府与反政府武装间的战争，摩加迪沙失去了一半以上的人口。
8：Many of the roughly 750,000 people who remain in Mogadishu are the poorest of the poor, like the mother and baby sheltering under a bullet-ridden truck at a feeding center. Jobless, often homeless, faced with soaring food prices, they survive on humanitarian relief.
留在摩加迪沙的大约有75万人，大多数是穷人中最穷的人，就象这位在食物救助中心边栖身弹痕累累的小货车下的母亲和孩子。无业人口通常也是无家可归者，他们面对飞涨的食品价格，仅仅依靠人道主义救助生存。
9：Clutching bowls, boys wait at a feeding center for what could be their only meal of the day—a soup of corn and lentils. Once aid groups handed out dry rations. Now they distribute food cooked, to avoid attracting looters.
孩子们拿着碗盆，在食物救助中心等待可能是他们一天中仅有的一餐——玉米扁豆汤。以前援助组织提供干的口粮，现在，他们分发煮好的食物，以避免吸引掠食者。
10：Near the ruins of Somalia's old parliament, an unemployed traffic officer directs traffic for tips from drivers grateful for a sign of normalcy. "He thirsts for stability," says Somali journalist Harun Hassan. "It's inspiring."
在索马里老国会的废墟附近，一位失业了的交警指挥着交通来赚取小费，小费源自司机们对正常状态的感激。“他渴望稳定，”索马里记者海郞·海森说，“真是令人鼓舞。”
11：Townsmen in the breakaway Republic of Somaliland shoulder goats to a boat for export. Hundreds of miles separate the former British colony from the turmoil in southern Somalia. With no international recognition and scant outside help, Somaliland's leaders have built a stable, functioning government.
分离出的索马里兰共和国的城镇男人肩扛着山羊走向小艇上以便出口。前英国殖民地与南部的混乱地区分开数百英里。尽管没有国际社会的承认和缺乏外部援助，索马里南的领导者建立了一个稳定而运行良好的政府。
12：In a cocoon of calm, women have their hair styled and feet decorated with henna in Hargeysa, Somaliland's capital. "We are peaceful, not like Somalia," says salon owner Zamzam Mohamed. "We will develop our country."
在索马里兰的首府哈尔格萨一个平静的安乐窝里，女人们作着她们的发型和染脚指甲。“我们是安宁的，不象索马里，”发廊老板扎姆扎姆·穆汗穆德说，“我们会发展我们的国家。”
13：Somaliland's fledgling government has managed to successfully crack down on pirates with a robust arrest policy. Last year authorities detained a crew led by Farah Ismail Eid (at left), now serving a 15-year sentence in Mandhera Prison.
索马里兰年轻的政府设法以坚定的拘捕政策成功地击败了海盗。去年当局拘留了一个由法拉·伊斯梅尔·艾德（左）领导的团伙，法拉·伊斯梅尔·艾德正在曼德赫拉监狱服刑15年。
14：Oasis of Order
秩序的绿洲
Central-bank staff inspect newly printed Somaliland shillings, an independent currency created in 1994, a few years after Somaliland broke away from chaotic southern Somalia.
中央银行职员检查最近印刷的索马里兰先令，一种在1994年发行的独立货币，在索马里兰与混乱的索马里南部分裂后仅仅几年就进入了流通。
15：Rebuilt after dictator Mohamed Siad Barre bombed it flat in the late 1980s, Hargeysa is in the midst of a construction boom—with hotels like the City Center—mostly financed by returning expatriates. But experts worry Islamic extremists may be infiltrating Somaliland: In October 2008 suicide bombers struck locations across the capital.
哈尔格萨在独裁者穆罕默德.西亚德.巴雷于1980年代末把它炸平后重建了起来，处于一片建筑繁荣之中，拥有了“城市中心”大酒店，资金主要返回的移居国外者供给。但是，专家担心伊斯兰极端主义者可能渗透索马里兰：2008年10月自杀式炸弹袭击了首府的多个地点。
16：On her own in drought-stricken Sool, along Somaliland's disputed eastern border, a nomadic woman watches over her herd. Largely abandoned by the rest of the world, Somalis struggle to carry on in a lawless land.
在频遭干旱袭击的苏尔（Sool）地区（位于索马里兰有争议的东部边界）一切靠自己，一位游牧妇女看护着她的羊群。索马里很大程度上遭世界其它地区所抛弃，在不受法律约束的地方挣扎着坚持下去。
17：A guard with an automatic weapon waits in the car with photographer Pascal Maitre during a currency exchange in downtown Mogadishu. Any foreigner risks being killed or kidnapped, so Maitre had to be accompanied by armed guards every time he left his hotel. Even with guards, Maitre could not stay very long in any one place. Maitre says residents of Mogadishu would warn him when he was in danger of staying too long: "The people were very sorry, but they said, 'Go, go.'"
在摩加迪沙市区一次货币交换期间，一个握着自动武器的警卫和摄影师帕斯卡·梅伊特拉在小车里等候。任何外国人都要冒被杀或绑架的风险，因此梅伊特拉不得不每次离开酒店外出都由武装警卫陪同。即使和警卫在一起，梅伊特拉不能在一个地方停留太久。梅伊特拉说，当他处于逗留太久的危险中时，摩加迪沙的居民会提醒他：“人们很是抱歉，但是他们会说：‘走，走。’”
18：European tourists used to swim in the pool behind the al Uruba, formerly one of Mogadishu's best hotels. But visitors stopped coming in the late 1980s, after civil war broke out in the north of Somalia. Then the al Uruba, like much of Mogadishu, was reduced to ruins early in the 1990s.
欧洲旅游者习惯于在阿尔·乌鲁巴饭店后面的游泳池子里游泳，那是从前摩加迪沙最好的饭店之一。但是在1980年代末在索马里南部爆发内战后，游客就不再来了。而且阿尔·乌鲁巴饭店和摩加迪沙大多数地方一样，在1990年代初就变成了废墟。
19：Bales of qat newly arrived from Kenya will be delivered by truck to dealers near Mogadishu. Daily shipments of the leaves feed a drug habit roughly estimated to cost residents of the shattered capital $250,000 to $300,000 (U.S.) every day.
从肯尼亚刚刚到达的大捆夸特（qat）将被卡车运到附近的摩加迪沙向经销商交货。这种树叶天天出货培养了一种麻药习惯，粗略估计每天要花费这个破碎都市的居民25万到30万美元。
20: Guard Abdi Hassan looks through a door at the maximum-security prison in Mandhera, where he has worked for 35 years. Once Hassan guarded imprisoned opponents of dictator Mohamed Siad Barre, whose regime was overthrown in 1991. Now he guards a handful of pirates and other prisoners sent to this location by the government of the breakaway Republic of Somaliland.
警察阿巴迪·哈斯森在曼德赫拉的最高安全监狱通过门窗观察，在那里他工作了35年。曾经哈斯森看守关押的独裁者穆罕默德.西亚德.巴雷的反对者，西亚德的政权于1991年被推翻。现在，他看守的是少数几个海盗，和分裂出的索马里兰共和国政府发送到这里的其它囚犯。
21: Women in Hargeysa sell ten-dollar bundles of qat to eager customers, who buy more than 200,000 dollars' worth of the stimulant each day.
妇女在哈尔格萨向热衷于此的消费者出售10元一把的夸特（qat），这些嚼食者每天要买价值超过20万美元的这种刺激物。
22: Dusted in flour, laborers in Berbera count their wages. For unloading sacks from a truck and stacking them in a warehouse in Somaliland's main port, they were paid the equivalent of about three U.S. dollars each.
满身面粉的伯贝拉劳工数着他们的工资。他们在索马里兰主要港口一处仓库从一辆卡车上卸载面粉并垒好，每人大约可以得到相当于3美元的报酬。
23: Registering to vote in Somaliland's upcoming presidential election, a man in Hargeysa had his fingerprint scanned in December 2008. Originally planned for March 2009, the vote was postponed twice but is now scheduled for September. Though they have not yet officially recognized Somaliland as an independent nation, a handful of European countries and the U.S. donated three-fourths of the cost of holding the election—including funds that paid for this computer equipment—to encourage democracy in the region.
为了登记在索马里兰即将到来的总统选举投票，哈尔格萨的一个男子于2008年12月仔细检查他的指纹。选举原定于2009年3月，延期了二次，现在定于9月举行。尽管他们仍然没有被作为一个独立国家得到官方正式承认，少数欧洲国家和美国捐赠了四分之三的选举经费以鼓励这个地区的民主政治，包括为这种计算机设备支付的资金。
24: In the cool of evening, thousands of goats and sheep are herded aboard a ship at the Somaliland port of Berbera. Somalia's economy traditionally depended on such exports. War in the south and concerns about livestock disease have stopped the trade periodically. But with stability established in Somaliland and a quarantine center operating in Djibouti, exports have resumed. Almost two million animals were shipped out of Somaliland last year.
凉爽的夜晚里，伯贝拉的索马里兰港口数千只山羊和绵羊成群地被赶上一条船。索马里的经济传统上依靠这类出口。南部的战争和对牲畜疾病的关注周期性地停止了这种贸易。但是随着索马里兰确切的稳定和吉布提一家检疫中心的运行，出口已经重新恢复。去年几乎有200万头牲畜在索马里兰装船出口。
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每天下午，穆罕默德都会到灯塔来。
这座意大利风格的灯塔并不像是座难民营；它建于将近一世纪前，已经废弃多年。螺旋梯呈半坍塌状态，空荡的房间里弥漫着海水的腐潮味和尿骚味。年轻人盘腿坐在砾屑上，边嚼着咖特——一种叶子中含有兴奋剂的植物——边玩一种称为「拉杜」的骰子游戏，一玩就是好几个小时；有一些则聚在角落，吸食大麻脂。他们就像一座死城里的鬼魂，但这座灯塔安静且安全——要是摩加迪苏还有地方称得上安全的话。
18岁的穆罕默德是为了这里的景观而来的。他从顶楼看得到他所住的街坊在一度繁华的哈马维尼区中留下的废墟，也能看见前美国大使馆和豪华的乌鲁巴饭店的遗址，以及原本有许多黄金与香水商店的尚贾阿尼区——那些店家现在都被炸毁了。一只孤单的山羊站在主要干道中央，而道路两旁那些有数世纪历史的老房子日渐崩塌，偶尔还会把住在里面的游民活埋。穆罕默德还能看到就在灯塔下方那一小片弯月形的沙滩；他和其它几个男孩有时候会在那里踢一场即兴足球赛，还有赤着身体的小孩抱着废弃的保丽龙块，在波浪中起起伏伏。穆罕默德想要的话，大可天天欣赏这种欢乐与毁灭的矛盾，但他更爱凝望远方辽阔宁静的印度洋。「我花时间看海，」他说，「因为我知道它是我的食物来源。」
穆罕默德是渔夫，每天清晨5点带着渔网、驾着小船出海捕鱼。不管捕到什么，他都用独轮车推到市场贩卖。在风势较不危险的早晨，他能捕到可卖两美元、甚至三美元的渔获；这代表他自己、他的双亲和两个弟妹当天都可以填饱肚子。他父亲在几年前被迫击炮击成残废，从此全家人都依靠穆罕默德的收入过活，当时他14岁。他负担不起每个月十美元的学费，再者，反正他以前的同学也都不见了，他们大多加入了伊斯兰教激进民兵组织「青年党」。索马利亚苦难史上最近的时期，就和青年党与过渡联邦政府（由联合国支持、但并不稳固的联合政府）之间激烈的权力斗争息息相关。对穆罕默德这样的年轻男性来说，参加青年党是摆脱无能为力状态的诱人对策。但是话说回来，许多他以前的玩伴也就这样死了。
穆罕默德在一个分崩离析的国家长大。索马利亚备受崇敬、实施独裁的前总统巴瑞被推翻时，他才刚出生；整个国家旋即陷入持续了数十年的无政府状态。穆罕默德这一代对稳定的共和政体毫无概念，对其他事物却十分在行。「无论是M16步枪、迫击炮、手榴弹还是火箭筒，我只要一听到声音就能分辨出来。」
英文原文:
It is not an obvious refuge. Built nearly a century ago, the Italian lighthouse has been in disuse for years. Its spiral staircase is in a state of mid-collapse. Its hollowed-out rooms smell of sea rot and urine. Young men sit cross-legged in the rubble, chewing qat—a plant whose leaves contain a stimulant—and playing a dice game called ladu for hours. Some huddle in a corner and smoke hashish. They seem like ghosts in a city left for dead. But the lighthouse is quiet and it is safe—if anyplace in Mogadishu can be considered safe.
Mohammed, 18, comes for the view. From the top floor he sees the ruins of his neighborhood in the once illustrious Hamarweyne district. He can see the remains of the former American Embassy, the posh al Uruba Hotel, the Shangaani district, once teeming with gold merchants and perfume emporiums—all now blasted away. A lone goat stands in the middle of the main road, while the centuries-old houses alongside it slowly crumble, occasionally burying alive the squatters who inhabit them. Mohammed can also see, just below the lighthouse, the small crescent of sand where he and a few other guys sometimes improvise a game of soccer and the naked children clinging to chunks of discarded Styrofoam as they bob on the waves. He can take in this daily paradox of joy and destruction if he wishes. But he prefers to gaze farther out, at the unspooling carpet of tranquillity that is the Indian Ocean. "I spend my time looking at the sea," he says, "because I know that my food comes from there."
Mohammed is a fisherman. Every morning at five he pushes out into the water with his nets in a small boat. Whatever Mohammed catches, he hauls by wheelbarrow to the market. On mornings when the wind is not too hazardous, his catch fetches two or even three dollars—which means that he, his parents, and his two younger siblings will have enough to eat that day. A mortar blast incapacitated his father years ago, and his family has depended on Mohammed's income since he was 14. He cannot afford the ten-dollar monthly cost to attend school. And anyway, all his former schoolmates have disappeared. Most have joined the Islamic extremist militia called al Shabaab, which in Somalia's latest chapter of misery is locked in a ferocious power struggle with the Transitional Federal Government (TFG), a shaky alliance backed by the United Nations. For young males like Mohammed, al Shabaab is a tempting exit strategy from powerlessness. Then again, many of his former playmates are now dead.
Mohammed has grown up in a country that has collapsed. He had just been born when Somalia's last president, a cultish dictator named Mohamed Siad Barre, was overthrown and the country descended into decades of sustained anarchy. He is one of an entire generation without the slightest clue of what a stable republic looks like. They are learned in other things, however. "M16s, mortars, grenades, bazookas—I can tell each one apart as soon as I hear it," he says.